Instant Download of the Plans for The House Wrecker.is appropriately named for it’s professional quality bass output. Considerably more bass than is recommended for most homes, it’s popular application is DJ use, nightclubs and professional sound re-enforcement.
Of course there are those who enjoy fixing cracked plaster and insist on using one in the house and even some who have crammed one into their vehicles... go figure!
This is the box that moves enough air through the bottom ports alone... to levitate a 3 x 5 foot rug off the floor!
Usually applications that need this much bass will go with folded horns, but horns can create standing waves so large that much of the bass is canceled throughout the center of the space - right where you need it most! The HWK has far less loading problems in a given room and unlike a horn, can be used in smaller spaces.
In large spaces you can achieve seriously low bass - often below 20Hz.
It is also possible to scale this box design up or down for use with 12 or 18 inch subs.
Create a 7th order dual compound isobaric sledgehammer with 4 drivers!
WIDE BAND PERFORMANCE - meaning usable clean output is possible as high as 200 Hz! For small clubs, when a good chest hit is desired, we use a single Peavey Black Widow and get a rock hard hit between 40Hz and wherever we cross it over to. When low bass is desired a single 15 inch subwoofer is all thatÃ‚Â’s required.
CONFIGURABLE - With the ability to use between 1 and 4 drivers, it is possible to achieve up to 14 different tunings of this cabinet without touching the port sizes. This is a guarantee that you will have bass with a wide variety of 15 inch bass drivers.
- This box is offered for hobbyists who love to experiment. Since there are so many ways to load it, you should be able to find at least one that works with your woofer - regardless of the driver specs. (Theil&Small)
- The above illustrations depict only a few of the many ways this enclosure can be loaded. You may also experiment with running one of the woofers as a passive radiator for increased gain. (Higher Q)
- The ideal woofer selection if you going for the lowest bass would be a sub-woofer with an fs around 20 Hz, and a Qts less than .38 and a minimum VAS of 10 cubic feet.
- You can sale the plans up 18 inch woofers or down for 12 inch woofers.
- HOW TO BUILD ONE YOURSELFThis design also works well in the home for either audiophile use where speed and accuracy are a must have, OR for movies where these same qualities just make everything sound more real!
- SKILL LEVEL: This is an easy box to build provided you have a good table saw and can make accurate cuts.
- TOOLS NEEDED: Besides a table saw (with sharp blade) you will need clamps, carpenter's wood glue, a sander (belt sanders work well) and a drill.
- WOOD NEEDED: The box can be built from 1-1/2 sheets of 48 x 96 inch plywood, MDF or high density particle board.
- SCREWS are typically only used to fasten the removable top (lid) so that the woofer can be accessed. If you properly build the box with wood glue and clamps, nails are not needed as the glue becomes stronger then the wood itself. If you have an air nailer, you can use 2 inch finish nails to hold the panels together in place of clamps while the glue dries.
- FINISHES: The most common way to finish this cabinet is to paint it. There are tons of finishes available that can make the box look like anything from rock, to marble. Also you can use real wood veneer for a completely professional look in the house.
- JOINERY: The quality of your cuts determines the joinery or fit of each panel. Quality joinery is a major part of the distortion free performance of this box. If you're into box carpet and liquid nails to hide your joinery, and demand the best performance consider purchasing one already built by Decware. We use CNC machines and build the cabinets more perfectly then is possible to do by hand.
- WIRING: Since this box can be pointing in any direction other then face down, no official back or front have been defined. We recommend soldering a pair of stranded 16 AWG copper wires to the woofer terminals and run the wire out through the port opening. Make it long enough to connect directly to your amp. If you decide to hide the wire, you can drill a small hole through one of the sides of the box and seal the wire with caulk where it passes through the hole. Terminal cups leak air and are not recommended.