Downloadable plans for the Decware 10 Inch Death Box
- SKILL LEVEL: This is an easy box to build provided you have a good table saw and can make accurate cuts.
TOOLS NEEDED: Besides a table saw (with sharp blade) you will need clamps, carpenter's wood glue, a sander (belt sanders work well) and a drill.
WOOD NEEDED: The box can be built from exactly 1/2 sheet of 48 x 96 inch plywood, MDF or high density particle board. Below the add to cart button is a cut-sheet illustration showing how each panel should be laid out for cutting:
TIP The trick to assembly is to construct the insert first. Then wrap the side panels around the insert and install the bottom panel. This way the insert will move inside the box with a perfect fit. SCREWS are typically only used to fasten the removable top (lid) so that the woofer can be accessed. If you properly build the box with wood glue and clamps, nails are not needed as the glue becomes stronger then the wood itself. If you have an air nailer, you can use 2 inch finish nails to hold the panels together in place of clamps while the glue dries.
FINISHES: The most common way to finish this cabinet is to paint it. There are tons of finishes available that can make the box look like anything from rock, to marble. Also you can use real wood veneer for a completely professional look in the house.
WOOFERS: Decware makes an ideal and well loved woofer for this cabinet. However, the very design makes it compatible with 100's of different 10 inch car audio woofers that work in smaller boxes. Even an inexpensive woofer will see double it's rated power handling in this enclosure and sound great doing it.
JOINERY: The quality of your cuts determines the joinery or fit of each panel. Quality joinery is a major part of the distortion free performance of this box. If you're into box carpet and liquid nails to hide your joinery, and demand the best performance consider purchasing one already built by Decware. We use CNC machines and build the cabinets more perfectly then is possible to do by hand.
WIRING: Since this box can be pointing in any direction other then face down, no official back or front have been defined. We recommend soldering a pair of stranded 16 AWG copper wires to the woofer terminals and run the wire out through the port opening. Make it long enough to connect directly to your amp. If you decide to hide the wire, you can drill a small hole through one of the sides of the box and seal the wire with caulk where it passes through the hole. Terminal cups leak air and are not recommended.